Day 5 Alsace: Eguisheim and the Ecomusee d’Alsace - 12 May
Alas, our last full day at Alsace. So much yet to do and so little time!
Confused on how best to spend our last 24 hours in the region, we asked Maggie from La Haute Grange to throw us some suggestions over breakfast. “You haven’t seen Eguisheim yet, and you can’t leave Alsace without visiting the Ecomusee d’Alsace.” We had our answer. Thankfully, it had rained overnight and the temperatures had dropped considerably, making it easier to sightsee.
Having spent much time driving, we pulled into the local supermarket/ gas station to fill up. Wanting to get an idea what supermarkets stock in Alsace, we went in for a look. We were bowled over when we saw Chateauneuf-du-Pap 2009 and Bordeaux wines like Saint Emilion selling in the supermarket for 14.99 Euros and 7.29 Euros respectively. These wines retail upwards of $30 and $40 in Australia! We’ve always said that we pay too much for food and alcohol in Australia, but this was ridiculous. Eguisheim:
A largely German speaking community, Eguisheim is classed as another of France’s most beautiful villages. A medieval city built in 3 concentric circles, it was the birthplace of Pope St Leon IX in 1002. Filled with historic half-timbered houses, balconies filled with geraniums, bay windows and pointed gables, it also features the remains of an octagonal Roman castle. Hidden within its lane ways and charming cobblestoned streets were culinary artisans that made us weep over the fact that we could not bring any of their delicacies back with us to Australia.
Here were a couple of culinary artisans that blew us away:
Chez Thierry - Specialists in air dried and cured meats and sausages. We sampled a duck sausage and a pork sausage with figs that were sensational! They also make sausages from deer, stag and pheasant. Rather than a store or boutique, Chez Thierry operates out of a stall that opens out from their home window. 14a Rempart Sud, 68420 Eguisheim (no website).
La Boutique du Champignon - As the name suggests, this boutique sells anything and everything to do with champignons and mushrooms: salt, seasoning, powder, spreads, infused oils, terrines, pates, the list goes in. A ‘must’ for mushroom aficionados.
Our next site was in fact the best way to complete our Alsace journey, the Ecomusee d’Alsace. Organized like a typical Alsace village with streets, paths, squares, its river and an ensemble of buildings originating from the entire region, it is the largest ecomuseum in France and the most prestigious in Europe. It presents a “summary” of Alsace and its culture, so that you can catch its quintessence. The real beauty of this place is that the visitor doesn’t just spectate, but actively enters the traditional homes and watches the artisans as they go about their daily activities of baking bread, cooking, making pottery, etc. In the meantime, storks nested on the roofs, peacocks wailed, goats chewed and pigs wallowed in the mud as they would have since time immemorial. Opened in 1984, there was nothing contrived or ‘touristy’ about this ecomuseum. www.ecomusee-alsace.fr
We will spend our last night in Alsace at our favorite restaurant in France thus far, Caveau Morakopf at Niedermorschwihr. On that note, I will bid you Bon Soiree.
Posted by Victoria Ugarte on 12th May, 2012 | Trackbacks Categories: France Tags:
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